The Truth About Oils for Seborrheic Dermatitis, Dandruff, & Fungal Acne: What to Use and Avoid

Are you dealing with seborrheic dermatitis, fungal acne, or dandruff?

While many treatment options are available, such as medicated shampoos or steroid creams, these skin conditions can be elusive and challenging to manage.

If you've decided to use natural remedies, you need to know this: Not all oils are helpful or safe for managing your symptoms. In fact, some might harm more than help.

Why? 

These skin conditions are linked to a type of fungus. If you aren't careful, you might use oils on your skin or scalp that fuel its growth. This can worsen your symptoms.

So, before you add a new oil or product to your skincare routine, it's essential to take a look at its ingredients list. Doing so helps you spot oils that might worsen seborrheic dermatitis, dandruff, or fungal acne.

Table of Contents: 

• What Are the Different Oils and Lipids Used in Skin and Hair Care?
• Using Oils and Lipids in Skin and Hair Care
• Oils to Avoid If You Have Seborrheic Dermatitis, Dandruff, or Fungal Acne
• Best Oils for Seborrheic Dermatitis, Fungal Acne, & Dandruff Relief
• MCT Oil vs. Coconut Oil: Which Is Better?
• Choosing the Right Product

What Are the Different Oils and Lipids Used in Skin and Hair Care?

Lipids encompass fats in solid form and oils in liquid form. You'll notice that many different lipids are used in skin and hair care. For instance, skin and hair oils, such as coconut oil, tea tree oil, jojoba oil, and olive oil, are often used in products like body moisturizers, scrubs, shampoos, and conditioners.

Apart from fats and oils, essential oils are also commonly used due to their benefits for the skin, scalp, and hair. Despite their name, essential oils aren't technically oils, as they don't contain fatty acids.

Essential oils are concentrated liquids containing compounds from certain plants. These liquids capture a plant's essence, scents, or flavors and are commonly used in aromatherapy.

Let's explore whether lipids and essential oils are safe to use on the skin for individuals with seborrheic dermatitis, dandruff, or fungal acne.

Using Oils and Lipids in Skin and Hair Care

If you have seborrheic dermatitis, dandruff, or fungal acne, you might have considered using oils or lipids as a natural remedy. After all, they have impressive moisturizing and anti-inflammatory benefits.

However, not all oils are created equal—especially when it comes to these conditions. Since they're linked to a fungus called Malassezia, it's important to know which oils are safe and which could worsen your symptoms.

How is Malassezia linked to Seborrheic Dermatitis, Dandruff, and Fungal Acne?

The Malassezia fungus is often harmless. It typically resides on your scalp without causing any trouble.

Though scientists can't pinpoint the exact underlying mechanisms behind the development of dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis, the Malassezia fungus could be one of the main causative factors.

The following are several explanations why Malassezia is thought to be linked to seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff: [1]

• A higher population of Malassezia is associated with a greater appearance or severity of symptoms.

• Malassezia yeasts are mainly present in areas of the body with a high density of sebaceous glands, such as the scalp and face. Sebaceous glands secrete sebum, an oily substance that can become food for the fungus. These body areas are also where seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff commonly appear.

• Medications that are effective against seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff have a single common mechanism of action: They all have antifungal properties.

• Malassezia yeasts feed on sebum and release fatty acids that interfere with the skin's normal barrier function and trigger an inflammatory response, which leads to symptoms like itchiness, flaky skin, and inflammation.

If you have fungal acne, it's also important to understand that over 90% of cases are linked to the Malassezia fungus. Additionally, fungal acne tends to appear in sebum-rich areas of the body [2].

The Problem with Oils and Lipids in Skin and Hair Care

Now that we've established that seborrheic dermatitis, dandruff, and fungal acne are likely linked to Malassezia, let's explore why oils and lipids can be very problematic for individuals with these skin conditions.

You might have noticed that oils like coconut oil, tea tree oil, jojoba oil, and olive oil are often used in skin and hair care products. They're well-known for their deep hydration, lasting moisture, and antioxidant properties.

But there's a massive problem with this. Malassezia enjoys feeding off lipids. Thus, certain oils can become food and fuel for this fungus [3]. If you're not careful, you might unknowingly feed the culprit responsible for your symptoms.

That said, this fungus does not feed on all kinds of oils or lipids. Malassezia prefers oils containing fatty acids with a carbon chain length between C11 and C24 [4].

Fatty acids are the building blocks of oils and fats. The type of fatty acids that make up these oils and fats makes a difference.

Certain oils contain a high percentage of fatty acids with 11-24 carbon atoms in their carbon chains. For people with Malassezia-prone skin, using these oils often spells trouble.

The following is a list of fatty acids that can be problematic if you have seborrheic dermatitis, fungal acne, or dandruff:

• Lauric acid (C12)

• Tridecylic acid (C13)

• Myristic acid (C14)

• Pentadecanoic acid (C15)

• Palmitic acid (C16)

• Margaric acid (C17)

• Stearic acid (C18)

• Oleic acid (C18)

• Linoleic acid (C18)

• α-Linolenic acid (C18)

• Ricinoleic acid (C18)

• Nonadecylic acid (C19)

• Eicosanoic acid (C20)

• Arachidic acid (C20)

• Heneicosylic acid (C21)

• Behenic acid (C22)

• Tricosylic acid (C23)

• Lignoceric acid (C24)

Those you come across in skincare products usually have even-numbered carbon chains, such as lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid.

The graphs below show the results from two different studies. In each one, you can see that Malassezia yeast begins growing rapidly as soon as the carbon chain length reaches C11 and beyond.

Notice how there is little to no growth when the yeast is exposed to caprylic (C8) and capric acid (C10), found in MCT oil.

Of course, these yeast-feeding fatty acids have helpful properties. This is why they're commonly used as emollients or emulsifiers in skincare products. However, the cons likely outweigh the pros for those with Malassezia-linked skin conditions.

Nonetheless, different people may react to these oils differently. The best way to ensure a product is safe is to patch-test it every day for at least a week or two before applying it to a larger area of your skin.

Oils to Avoid If You Have Seborrheic Dermatitis, Dandruff, or Fungal Acne

Oils containing certain fatty acids can fuel Malassezia's growth. If you have seborrheic dermatitis, dandruff, or fungal acne, it's best to avoid the following lipids in your skincare or hair care products.

It's a pretty extensive list because only a few lipids are Malassezia-safe.

Best Oils for Seborrheic Dermatitis, Fungal Acne, & Dandruff Relief

Only three kinds of oils are generally safe for Malassezia-prone skin.

Let's explore them further below.

#1: MCT Oil 

MCT oil is actually a derivative of coconut or palm kernel oil. It undergoes a process known as fractionation, which separates the medium-chain triglycerides (MCT) from the rest of the oil. 

MCT oil is composed of MCTs, which include the following:

• Caproic acid (6 carbon atoms)

• Caprylic acid (8 carbon atoms) 

• Capric acid (10 carbon atoms)

• Lauric acid (12 carbon atoms)

You can see that most MCTs are Malassezia-safe, except for lauric acid. Fortunately, MCT oils mainly contain caprylic acid and capric acid, which are not a food source for Malassezia. You can also opt for an MCT oil product that does not have any lauric acid.

MCT oil is also said to help promote scalp health and encourage hair growth. It's said to have antifungal properties, so it can be useful in helping to soothe symptoms of seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff.

We take care to create our formulations with only ingredients that are Malassezia-safe. We've harnessed the impressive antimicrobial and moisturizing properties of MCT oil in the Dermazen Soothing Malassezia Moisturizer and Mineral and Enzyme Body Wash. The MCT oil in these formulations helps clear away the fungus and soothe and hydrate the skin.

#2: Squalane Oil 

Squalane oil is a type of saturated oil that's commonly used in skincare products due to its hydrating and anti-inflammatory properties. It comprises fatty acids with a 30-carbon chain backbone, making it Malassezia-friendly.

Squalane oil tends to be less greasy, even though it is technically an oil. Plus, research suggests it is odorless, non-comedogenic, and safe for sensitive skin. It can also be helpful in managing different skin conditions, including contact, seborrheic, or atopic dermatitis [5].

This powerful emollient is incorporated into the Dermazen Purifying Facial Cleanser and helps to hydrate, soothe, and soften the skin.

#3: Mineral Oil 

Despite its name, mineral oil isn't actually oil and does not contain fatty acids. Because of this, it is unlikely to become a food and fuel source for Malassezia.

Mineral oil is safe and suitable for many skin types. Thanks to its hydrating and soothing properties, it is commonly used in skincare products.

However, mineral oil is naturally thick and occlusive. It can trap sweat and dead skin cells that clog pores. Thus, it may still be best to opt for MCT oil or squalane oil instead.

MCT Oil vs. Coconut Oil: Which Is Better?

While MCT oil is technically extracted from coconut oil, the two differ largely because of this fact; MCT oil has been purified and concentrated and, thus, only contains medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs).

MCTs consist mainly of caprylic acid (around 50–80%) and caproic acid (20–50%) [6]. Thus, MCT oils are a much better and safer option for those with seborrheic dermatitis, dandruff, or fungal acne.

In contrast, coconut oil poses a higher risk of aggravating symptoms. While coconut oil may display antimicrobial or antifungal activity against certain microbes, the same cannot be said about the Malassezia fungal species.

In fact, Malassezia enjoys feeding off fatty acids with a chain length between 11 and 24. If you recall, the fatty acid with the highest percentage in coconut oil is lauric acid, which has a 12-carbon chain. 

That's why coconut oil can facilitate Malassezia growth and worsen your seborrheic dermatitis or dandruff, while MCT oil is considered a safe remedy for Malassezia-related conditions.

Best Practices for Choosing Skincare and Haircare Products

If you want to include a new product in your routine, here are some important tips to keep in mind:

• Opt for Malassezia-safe products. For instance, it's best to avoid using skin or hair care products that contain coconut oil or jojoba oil. If you're unsure, you can check if a specific ingredient is Malassezia-safe using Sezia.co.

• Look out for ingredients with antifungal properties. Certain dandruff shampoos may contain ingredients like zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfide, or ketoconazole, which help combat Malassezia growth. You can also look for natural ingredients with antifungal properties, such as sea salt, tea tree oil, and grapefruit seed extract.

• Opt for formulas that do not contain harsh fragrances or parabens. Artificial fragrances and parabens can irritate sensitive skin.

• Avoid sulfates in shampoos. Be cautious of sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES). These chemicals can be too harsh and strip the skin or scalp of moisture, leading to irritation.

• Moisturize wisely. A suitable moisturizer can help with the flaking, dryness, and itch. Don't go for products containing oils or lipids. Instead, look for hydrating ingredients that don't feed Malassezia, such as hyaluronic acid or urea.

• Do a patch test before application. Before applying a new product to your face or scalp, do a patch test on a small area to check for allergic reactions or sensitivities.

Fragranced Essential Oils: Friend or Foe?

Now that we've explored the use of oils and lipids, let's examine the effects of essential oils on the skin, scalp, and hair.

Essential oils are among the most popular natural remedies for seborrheic dermatitis, dandruff, and even fungal acne. And there's a good reason why. Certain essential oils have scientific evidence backing their benefits in combating symptoms, soothing the skin, and fostering healing.

Best Essential Oils for Seborrheic Dermatitis, Dandruff, and Fungal Acne

Here are some of the best essential oils for those with Malassezia-related skin conditions:

• Tea Tree Oil: Also known as melaleuca oil, tea tree oil has antifungal and anti-inflammatory properties that may help with seborrheic dermatitis. One study found that applying a tea tree oil gel significantly improved symptoms like itching, scaling, and greasy crusts [7].

• Peppermint Oil: Known for its cooling and refreshing effect, peppermint oil may help soothe itchy skin and combat dandruff and flaking [8]. It's also affordable, has a pleasant scent, and is generally safe for topical use [9].

• Lavender Oil: This widely used essential oil has anti-inflammatory properties that can help reduce redness, discoloration, and blotchiness [10].

• Cinnamon Oil: With its warm, spicy aroma, cinnamon oil has shown potential in managing seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff due to its antifungal properties against Malassezia [11].

• Rosemary Oil: Research suggests rosemary oil has antifungal effects that may help combat Malassezia. It may also help tackle Malassezia's biofilm (its protective shield), making antifungal treatments more effective [12]. Additionally, rosemary oil is often used to support hair growth and prevent premature graying.

• Clove Oil: This essential oil contains antifungal compounds that may help inhibit the spread of dandruff-causing microorganisms, including Malassezia [13]. Some studies suggest it can also provide relief from itchiness [14].

• Eucalyptus Oil: Studies indicate that scalps with dandruff often have low ceramide levels, contributing to dryness and irritation. Eucalyptus oil may help increase ceramide levels, improving moisture retention and alleviating symptoms like dryness, itchiness, and redness [15].

• Oregano Oil: Because it's packed with antimicrobial and antioxidant compounds, oregano oil may help alleviate seborrheic dermatitis symptoms [16]. Research suggests its active compound, carvacrol, has strong antifungal activity against Malassezia [17].

How to Safely Use Essential Oils

If you want to start using essential oils to help soothe your symptoms, keep the following pointers in mind:

• Always dilute them before use. Essential oils are highly concentrated and should never be applied directly to the skin or scalp. Before applying an essential oil to your skin, be sure to dilute it in water or a carrier oil.

• Choose carrier oils carefully. Many common carrier oils, like coconut and olive oil, can feed Malassezia and worsen flare-ups. Instead, choose safe options like MCT oil (without lauric acid) or squalane oil.

• Add essential oils to your shampoos. Since essential oils shouldn't be used undiluted, you can also mix a few drops of antifungal essential oils into a mild, fragrance-free shampoo or a scalp treatment.

• Perform a patch test. Before applying an essential oil blend to your skin or scalp, do a patch test. After diluting the essential oil in water or carrier oil, apply a small amount to your skin, leave it on for around 24 hours, and monitor for any irritation or allergic reactions.

• Read the labels carefully. These labels usually contain instructions on how to safely use the essential oil, such as the number of drops to use. This helps minimize any risk of side effects or allergic reactions.

• Be cautious with sensitive areas. Essential oils should not be applied near the eyes or on broken or inflamed skin, as they can cause stinging and irritation.

Choosing the Right Product

Knowing how to pick the right product for your skin can feel like navigating a maze.

Certain products may be labeled safe for dandruff or Malassezia-related conditions but may still contain ingredients that can fuel fungal growth. For instance, many anti-dandruff shampoos contain coconut oil or olive oil, which are known to promote Malassezia growth.

You can, of course, opt for single-ingredient remedies, like MCT oil, that can soothe itchiness and flakiness without feeding Malassezia. That way, you'd know exactly what you're putting on your skin.

The most holistic solution comprises a range of ingredients that work together to clear away the fungus and provide relief and nourishment to the skin.

Through a symphony of powerful yet safe ingredients, the Calming Seborrheic Serum is designed to combat Malassezia, disrupt its biofilm, and soothe the skin without fueling the growth of Malassezia.

Xylitol and colloidal silver safely disrupt the Malassezia biofilm, leaving the fungus vulnerable to the antifungal effects of tea tree oil, grapefruit seed extract, and dead sea salt.

The other ingredients wrap up the process by calming the skin and reducing inflammation, flakiness, and itchiness.

The Calming Seborrheic Serum 

With this all-in-one serum, you get the best of both worlds. It helps minimize Malassezia growth and reduce symptoms while soothing, nourishing, and hydrating the skin.

You can finally say goodbye to flakes and itching and hello to happy, healthy skin!